|
The Northern Lights / Aurora Borealis By Lyndon Anderson |
|
|
|
Photographing the Northern Lights Photographing the northern lights is a relatively simple process. One of the first things to understand is that my formula won’t necessarily work for you. Why? My camera equipment probably differs from yours. Thus, you will have to experiment to find which settings produce the best results. Eventually, you should be able to look at the brightness of a display and know what settings will produce a photograph that is properly exposed. A major advantage of a digital camera is that you can see the results right away, and you can then make adjustments. And the great thing about a digital camera is that all the information on settings is recorded so you can go view a photograph at a later date and review all the settings.
The above photograph was taken on May 19, 2002. Equipment guidelines I learned to photograph the northern lights with a single lens reflex camera that uses film. However, I found that a digital single lens reflex camera produces excellent results, and so I sold my film cameras. Thus, my guidelines will focus on digital single lens reflex cameras. I recommend the use of a digital single lens reflex camera over a digital point and shoot camera. Why? Number one, you can exchange the lens to better capture a display – depending on how much of the sky it fills, and number two, you typically have a little more control over the length of exposures (some digital point and shoot cameras are limited to a 15 second exposure). I use a Pentax ist D camera and a Sigma 20 mm lens with a 1.8 aperture to photograph the northern lights. I do not recommend zoom lenses. Typically, they do not let enough light in the camera during shorter exposures. As a result, they do not do a good job of capturing details in each display. I also prefer the use of a wide angle lens as it allows you to capture a large part of the sky. Please note: my 20 mm lens is equivalent to a 30 mm lens on a film single lens reflex camera. That’s because the sensor size is smaller than each “film” frame. Other lens options include a fish eye to capture the entire sky, or a 30 mm (equivalent to a 45 mm lens on a single lens reflex camera) to capture smaller displays or specific features of a large display. You might want to take any filters off your lens. Often you will see a faint series of rings in the middle of your photographs if you leave your skylight filter on, particularly on wide-angle lens. I typically set the ISO on my camera to 800, although 400 or 1,600 would also work, depending on the brightness of the display. The white balance is set on cloudy. The length of each exposure depends on the brightness of each display and can range from 3 seconds to just over 30 seconds. My camera has a B (bulb) setting that allows me to take exposures longer than one second. I also use a tripod and cable release shutter to eliminate the camera from moving while taking photographs. A heavier tripod is desirable if it is windy out. I also find that I have to be patient after taking each photograph as it takes 10 to 15 seconds to record the photograph to the compact flash card. While I can capture most displays with my camera, it can be difficult to photograph a real fast moving display. I often attempt to do so, but sometimes I put the camera aside and enjoy watching the display. What else? I also bring along an extra compact flash card in order to have adequate storage for photographs. Extra batteries are a must, especially during when it is cold out. I have found that battery life during cooler weather is very limited, and is probably the biggest drawback of using a digital single lens reflex camera. I would recommend having a backup camera. In March 2001, while photographing a major display, my camera wore out. And that was unfortunate, especially during a major display.
The above photograph was taken on Christmas Eve morning - December 24, 2001. Composition I would recommend photographing more than just a display. Putting something in the foreground adds to a photograph and provides some perspective. Some ideas when photographing on the prairie include windmills, trees, buildings, towers, a fence, hay bales and farm machinery. While strong moonlight can make it difficult to see a weak show, some moonlight can "light up" the landscape and provide a pleasing effect. Include a star background and learn more about the constellations – what the patterns are and where they are in the night sky – so that you include them in your photographs. The moon and planets also make good backgrounds. It also helps to stay away from the interference of city and car lights, although, they too can sometimes add to a photograph. Other Keep in mind that some displays "photograph better" than others. I have been wowed many times by photographs from certain shows. Other times I have been disappointed by what is recorded. Whatever happens, keep trying to capture those "winners." I was lucky during my first ever photo shoot of the northern lights. Every photograph that I took turned out because it was a bright show. I wasn't as lucky on some of the weaker displays. However, I did learn how to photograph those as well. One thing I have learned, and it has influenced my “chasing,” is that I rarely observe or photograph during weak shows as results are minimal. However, during major displays, I often observe all night, and take as many photographs as possible as results are often very pleasing. |
|
Page 1 - Overview of Information in Online
Brochure |
|
|
